. . USOO5362486A
United States Patent [19] [11] Patent Number: 5,362,486
Nandagiri et al. [45] Date of Patent: Nov. 8, 1994
54 IN-SITU POLYMERIZATION OF
[ ] OLIGOMERS ONTO HAIR FOREIGN PATENT DOCUMENTS
04l0393A2 1/1991 European Pat. Off. C08L 83/04
[75] Inventors: Arun Nandagiri, Libertyville; O473039A1 3/1992 European Pat. Off. ..... .. A61K 7/11
Jacqueline Hutter, Chicago; Ramiro
Galleguillos, Glendale Heights, all of OTHER PUBLICATIONS
Ill. Brendley and Bakule, “Chemistry of Acrylic Resins for
‘ Coatings,” Applied Polymer Science, pp. 1050-1052,
[73] Assignee: Helene Curtis, Inc., Chicago, 111. American Chemical Society, 1935_
[21] APPL No’: 866,844 (List continued on next page.)
[22] Filed: Apr. 10’ 1992 Primary Examiner—-Edward J. Werman _
Attorney, Agent, or Fzrm—Marshall, O’Toole, Gerstem,
[51] Int. Cl.5 ................... .. A61K 7/11; A61K 31/755; Murray & BOW“
COSG 18/04; COSG 18/10 [57] ABSTRACT
[52] U.S. Cl. ...................................... .. 424/71; 424/47; . _ _ _
424/DIG_ 1; 424/DIG_ 2; 424/78.17; 525/28; An agueous, alcoholic or hydroalcholic composition
525/452 containing one or more oligo_mers or prepolymersthat
[58] Field of Search ............. .. 424/71, 47, 7o, DIG. 1, are P°1Yn,1enZed H}-Sit“: _Wh}1e the °_118°mer(S) 1% In
424/D1G_ 2; 528/85; 523/212; 525/7’ 28 contact Wlth the hall‘, for 11:1-Sltll formation (polymeriza-
tion) of a polymer. The oligomer compositions contain
[56] References cited essentially no toxic, hazardous or harmful monomer(s),
U.S. PATENT DOCUMENTS
3,472,604 10/1969 Dasher et al. ....................... .. 8/ 10.2
3,633,591 1/ 1972 Anzuino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 132/7
3,634,022 1/1972 Robbins et al. .. 8/ 127.51
3,645,781 2/1972 Brown ........ .. 428/270
3,676,550 7/1972 Anzuino . . . . . . . . . . . .. 424/71
3,801,272 4/1974 Wagner et al. . 528/85
3,850,178 11/1974 Schoenholz 132/7
4,036,241 7/1977 Karg et al. ..... .. 132/7
4,254,002 3/1981 Speiling et al. 525/7
4,278,659 7/1981 Breuer ........ .. 424/71
4,309,526 1/1982 Baccei ..................... .. 528/75
4,551,486 11/1985 Tateosian et al. 523/212
4,588,760 -5/1986 Jachowicz et al. .. 524/12
4,682,612 7/1987 Giuliano 132/73
4,704,272 11/1987 Oh et al. . . . . . . . . . . .. 424/70
4,741,855 5/1988 Grote et al. ........ .. 252/142
4,766,005 8/1988 Montgomery et al. .. .... .. 424/70
4,788,006 11/1988 Bolich, Jr. et al. .... .. 252/550
4,789,720 12/1988 Teffenhart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 528/76
4,798,876 1/1989 Gould et al. . 525/457
4,810,582 3/1989 Gould et al. ....... .. 428/423.1
4,902,499 2/1990 Bolish, Jr. et al. .. 424/47
4,960,588 10/1990 Hoshowski et al. . ....... .. 424/71
5,085,859 2/1992 Halloran et al. ........... .. 424/DIG. 2
such as resorcinol. In-situ polymerization provides sub-
stantially increased body to the hair; provides better,
more continuous films of polymer into and onto the
hair; provides a polymer coating with less flaking; will
provide a more complete bond to adjacent hair shafts
‘and to each individual hair shaft; better protects the hair
against uptake of humidity; strengthens damaged hair;
resists removal through at least three shampoos; are
useful together with permanent wave reducing and
oxidizing agents to make permanent waves more dura-
ble; prevents leach out of hair colors; provides for
higher loading of polymer into and onto the hair and,
therefore, better set retention; and provides a more
durable set retention that also protects the hair against
thermal damage and better resists hair uptake of atmo-
spheric contaminants. When the polymerization of the
oligomer or prepolymer results in a thermoplastic poly-
mer having a glass transition temperature (Tg) less than
about 120° C., the polymer can be repeatedly heated
and cooled to reset the hair many times to reconfigure
the hair without degrading the polymer.
20 Claims, No Drawings
5,362,486
Page 2
OTHER PUBLICATIONS
Lai and Baccei, “Synthesis and Structure—Property
Relationships of UV-Curable Urethane Prepolymers
with Hard-Soft Hard Blocks,” J. Applied Polymer Sci-
ence, vol. 42, pp. 2039-2044 (1991).
Zviak, The Science of Hair ‘Care, pp. 149-181, Marcel
Dekker, Inc. 1986.
Makinson, Shrinkproofing of Wool, pp. 280-282, Marcel
Dekker, Inc. 1979.
Jones, Leeder, and Wemyss, “The Wrinkling Behav-
iour of Wool Fabrics: The Effect of Annealing and
Cross—Linking,” J. Textile Institute, vol. 63, pp.
135-141, 1972. ‘
Feldtman and Fleischfresser, “Permanent-Press Effects
in Wool Part IX: Stabilizing Set with Reactive Pre—-
Formed Polymers,” J. Textile Institute, vol. 62, pp.
471-481, 1971.
Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human
Hair, 2nd Ed., pp. 196-224, Springer-Verlag, 1988.
Matsumoto and Oiwa, “Glycol Bis(a1ly1 Phthalates) as
Cocross-linkers for Diallyl Phthalate Resins,” Reactive
Oligomers, pp. 225-235, American Chemical Society,
1985.
Sperling, Mason, and Jordhamo, “Special Functional
Triglyceride Oils as Reactive Oligomers for Simulta-
neous Interpenetrating Networks,” Reactive Oligomers,
pp. 237-249, American Chemical Society, 1985.
Robbins, et al., “Polymerization into Human Hair,” J.
Soc. Cosmet. Chem., vol. 25, pp. 407-421, 1974.
Wolfram, “Modification of Hair by Internal Deposition
of Polymers,” J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem, vol. 20, pp.
539-553, 1969.
5,362,486
1
IN-SITU POLYMERIZATION OF OLIGOMERS
ONTO HAIR
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to an aqueous and-
/or alcoholic composition, or a composition containing
other cosmetically acceptable solvents, containing a
polymerizable oligomer that is applied onto hair to
modify one or more cosmetic properties of the hair. The
oligomer is polymerized, in-situ, while in contact with
the hair to modify at least one hair property, such as
body, conditioning, shine, set retention, combability, or
the like. The oligomer can be polymerized, in-situ,
while in contact with hair in any known manner, such
as by including an initiator, e.g., a heat-activated initia-
tor, or a polymerization catalyst in the oligomer compo-
sition and processing the composition, such as by heat-
ing the composition with a hair blow dryer, or other
heating means or by use of an accelerator or catalyst, or
the like.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION AND
PRIOR ART
Normal hair can be so fine and limp, and so lacking in
body that the hair does not hold a hair set well. Further-
more, the hair can become even less bodied and can be
weakened further as a result of being subjected to chem-
ically active hair treatments, such as permanent waves
and tints. Additionally, hair can be weakened even
further by other contributing factors, such as bleaching
by sun exposure and/or chlorinated swimming pool
water.
Hair setting is basically the process of shaping wet
hair by the steps of stretching the hair by curling the
hair, fixing the hair in place by drying, then combing to
give the fmishing touches to provide the desired hair
style. In particular, the setting of wet hair can be ac-
complished by making flat curls from strands of hair
and fixing the curls with hairpins to produce “pin
curls”. Similarly, the wet hair can be set by using any of
a variety of rollers or curlers to mechanically fix the
hair. In either case, the winding of the wet hair is fol-
lowed by drying, either by ambient air drying, electric
drying or hot air drying.
The inherent problem encountered in hair setting is
the natural tendency of the hair to return to its natural
shape. For example, the set hair returns to its natural
shape almost immediately if moistened. Likewise, high
humidity conditions accelerate the tendency of the hair
to retum to its natural shape. Therefore, intensive ef-
forts have been directed toward providing a hair set
with sufficient holding power to maintain the designed
hair style until at least the next shampoo, and, therefore,
giving the hair set a degree of permanency.
Therefore, investigators have sought to delay the
combined action of natural forces and moisture that
causes the hair to return to its original state by applying
solutions containing naturally-occurring or synthetic
polymers after the hair is shaped into a desired configu-
ration. When applied to the shaped hair from aqueous
or aqueous/alcoholic solutions (setting lotions), the
polymers leave a film on the hair, after drying, to help
maintain the hair in the previously shaped configura-
tion. The polymeric film promotes cohesion and gives
stability to the hair set to maintain the hold of the hair
set. The principal objective of a setting lotion is to cover
the previously styled hair with an invisible polymeric
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film that will give the styled hair a degree of rigidity
and protect the hair style against wind and humidity.
Hair spray products act in a similar manner. The hair
spray products are applied to wet and/or dry hair and
contain a polymer, or mixtures of polymers, that remain
fixed on the previously styled hair and affect the hair in
various ways. For example, a “mechanical” effect is
exerted on each individual hair. The film-forming poly-
mers are used to provide a flexible sheath of polymeric
film on the shaped hair after drying and, therefore, for
mechanical reasons, retard the return of each individual
hair to its natural shape. In addition, the polymeric film
provides an overall stiffening of the hair and the hair
strands are welded together, and the fmal hair style has
better cohesion, therefore resisting the natural forces
that return the hair to its natural shape. Finally, the
polymeric film protects the hair from humidity. The
ability of the polymeric film to attract and absorb water
is preferably minimal, such that the polymeric film re-
tards moisture uptake by hair and retards the retum of
the hair to the natural configuration.
The general principles of hair setting are thoroughly
discussed by C. Zviak, in The Science of Hair Care,
Marcel Dekker, pp. 149-181 (1986). Zviak reviews both
the polymers used in hair setting products and the for-
mulation principles used to produce a hair set product
that provides such beneficial hair set properties as im-
proved hair style hold, easy application and combing,
quick drying and non-stickiness, good hair body and
bounce, increased hair volume and gloss, and hydro-
phobicity.
The prior art reveals that nonionic, cationic and ani-
onic polymers have been used in hair set products, with
the anionic polymers providing the best hair set results.
However, anionic polymers also have disadvantages,
such as high water-solubility and, therefore, low hydro-
phobicity, and low substantivity to hair fibers, there-
fore, easy elimination from the hair by combing and
brushing. As a result, investigators have continued to
search for compounds and compositions that provide
the primary benefit of an improved durability of the hair
set. As previously mentioned, to overcome some of the
inherent disadvantages of the polymers utilized to set
the hair, hair set products are made available in diversi-
fied forms in an attempt to minimize the drawbacks of
the particular polymer used in the formulation. For
example, hair set products are available as plasticizing
lotions, plasticizing gels, aerosol foams, all-purpose
lotions, hair sprays, and holding lotions.
Others have attempted to polymerize monomers,
in-situ, while in contact with hair, as discussed in “Poly-
merization Into Human Hair”, Robbins, et al., Journal
of Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 25, pp. 407-421,
August, 1974; “Modification of Hair By Internal Depo-
sition Of Polymers”, Wolfram, Journal of Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 20, pp. 539-553, Aug. 19,
1969; and U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,472,604; 3,676,550; 3,634,022
and 4,588,760. The monomers have been problematic
due to the tendency of the monomeric materials to be
irritating and/or harmful to the hair and/or skin of the
user, particularly absorption of harmful monomers into
the skin of the user, and of the harsh feel left in the hair
or hair discoloration. Further, the reduction of hair
prior to treatment generally is necessary and causes
additional damage to the hair.
A major deficiency in prior art polymer hair treat-
ments is the lack of durability of these treatments, usu-
5,362,486
3
ally washing out after one or two shampoos. The in-situ
polymerization in accordance with the present inven-
tion provides a desirable polymer that lasts at least
through three shampoos. While other researchers have
attempted to improve the durability of polymer treat-
ments by forming the polymer in-situ, the main draw-
back to these previous treatments was that toxic and/ or
irritating monomeric species were used. One patent,
Breuer U.S. Pat. No. 4,278,659 discloses the application
of an oligomer formed by the condensation reaction of 10
glyceraldehyde and resorcinol heated together in the
presence of boric acid or silicic acid that only partially
polymerizes the monomers. One of the problems with
the application of the oligomeric composition disclosed
in U.S. Pat. No. 4,278,659 is that the pH of the composi-
tion must be at or below about 1.6 to achieve the poly-
merization of the monomers due to the necessity of the
acid addition, requiring later alkali addition for raising
the pH to an acceptable level before the composition
can be safely applied to the hair. Another problem with
the oligomeric composition disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.
4,278,659 is that a substantial quantity of monomer that
has not polymerized is left in the composition. Resorci-
nol becomes pink upon exposure to light and air and
significant absorption into the skin through the scalp or
hands can cause health problems, or even death. Ac-
cordingly, until the present invention, there has been no
safe and effective oligomeric hair care composition or
method of applying an oligomeric composition to hair
and further polymerizing the oligomer while in contact
with the hair.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,682,612 discloses oligomers such as
urethane-acrylates that are photoinitiated in the forma-
tion of artificial nails as long as positive benefits are
conferred to the hair. Any of the oligomers disclosed in
U.S. Pat. No. 4,682,612 are useful in accordance with
the present invention so long as the monomer is not
harmful to the skin and the U.S. Pat. No. 4,682,616 is
hereby incorporated by reference.
In accordance with the present invention, a new and
improved aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic compo-
sition, or compositions containing other cosmetically
acceptable solvents, and methods have been found
wherein a safe polymerizable oligomer or prepolymer
composition having essentially no irritating or harmful
monomers and/or oligomeric materials, is applied to
wet or dry hair and, thereafter, the hair is processed to
polymerize the oligomer, in-situ, while in contact with
the hair, to further polymerize the oligomer(s) or
prepolymer(s). The oligomer(s) or prepolymer(s) are
polymerized in-situ, e.g., with a thermal appliance, such
as a blow dryer or a curling iron, and/or by including a
polymerization accelerator or polymerization catalyst
in the composition, or in a separate composition. Poly-
merization, in-situ, without the presence of toxic, haz-
ardous or harmful monomer(s) or oligomer(s), has sub-
stantial advantages over application of a completely
polymerized polymer or polymerization of an oligomer
mixed with toxic or hazardous monomer(s) since in-situ
polymerization enables the oligomer to be in contact
with the hair during the various polymerization stages
for better chemical attachment to the hair while mini-
mizing the possibility of the absorption of harmful mon-
omers into the user’s skin. Further, in-situ polymeriza-
tion provides substantially increased body to the hair;
provides better uptake of polymer onto the hair; pro-
vides a polymer coating with less flaking; can provide a
more complete attachment of the resulting polymer to
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the hair; better protects the hair against uptake of hu-
midity; strengthens damaged hair; resists removal
through at least three shampoos; are useful to make
permanent waves more durable without reducing agent
odor; prevents leach out of hair colors; can provide for
higher loading of polymer into and onto the hair and,
therefore, better set retention; protects the hair against
thermal damage and better resists hair uptake of atmo-
spheric contaminants.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
In brief, the present invention is directed to an aque-
ous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic composition, or com-
positions containing any cosmetically acceptable sol-
vent, containing one or more oligomers or prepolymers
that are polymerized in-situ, while the oligomer(s) is in
contact with the hair, for in-situ formation (polymeriza-
tion) of a polymer. The oligomer compositions of the
present invention contain essentially no toxic, hazard-
ous, irritating or harmful monomer(s) or oligomer(s)
such as resorcinol. The oligomer compositions can be
provided in the form of a mousse, lotion, emulsion,
paste, liquid, foam or gel composition. The present
invention further is directed to a method of applying the
oligomer composition to hair, and thereafter polymeriz-
ing the oligomer, in-situ, to beneficially alter one or
more surface properties of the hair, such as increased
body, increased shine, better set retention, better comb-
ability, better conditioning and to impart durability to
all of these properties. After application of the oligomer
composition to wet or dry hair, before or after styling,
the hair then is treated in such a manner to polymerize
the oligomer(s) or prepolymer(s) in the composition.
The composition of the present invention includes a
water-soluble or water-dispersible or solvent-soluble or
solvent-dispersible oligomer or prepolymer without any
toxic monomer(s), and, after polymerization, in-situ,
becomes a polymer or resin that imparts substantially
increased body to the hair and, depending upon the
particular oligomer, may also impart one or more other
conditioning properties, such as a durable shine or
combability; resistance to uptake of humidity and atmo-
spheric contaminants; resistance to hair color loss and-
/ or durable set retention. The oligomer can be applied
in any manner, such as from a lotion, gel, mousse, emul-
sion, or the like.
The compositions and methods of the present inven-
tion can be more effective than application of similar
resins that are completely polymerized prior to applica-
tion to the hair. The amount of water and/or alcohol or
other solvent carrier(s) in the compositions of the pres-
ent invention can be in the range of about 0.5% to about
99.5% by weight of the composition; alcohol or other
solvents may be included in an amount of 0% to about
99.5% by weight.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is to
provide a new and improved hair treating composition
containing a set retention oligomer (a prepolymer or
oligomer that, after further polymerization while in
contact with human hairs will aid in retaining the hair in
a desired configuration), and method, that can be ap-
plied to the hair from an aqueous and/or solvent, e.g.,
alcoholic, composition in the form of a mousse, lotion,
emulsion, foam or gel for providing improved body,
shine, combability and/or other mechanical or surface
improvement to the hair after the oligomer or prepoly-
mer has been further polymerized while in contact with
the hair.
5,362,486
5
Another aspect of the present invention is to provide
an aqueous, solvent, e.g., alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or
other cosmetically acceptable solvent, hair bodifying
and/ or styling aid composition, and method, in the form
of a mousse, emulsion, lotion, foam or gel, that is acti-
vated by heat, actinic light, e.g., ultraviolet light, EB
radiation and/ or activator and/ or catalyst and polymer-
ized, after application to the hair, to form a set-retaining
polymer while in contact with the hair, without the
’ presence of a toxic, hazardous or harmful monomer or
oligomer in the composition.
In one embodiment, the oligomer or prepolymer is
polymerized in-situ to form a thermoplastic set-retain-
ing polymer so that the configuration of the hair can be
repeatedly changed by softening the thermoplastic pol-
ymer, e.g., using thermal appliances, such as curling
irons, hot crimpers, heated rollers, hair dryers or other
types of hair heating devices used for drying or shaping
of hair to heat the polymer above its glass transition
temperature (T3), and then cooling the hair below the
Tg to set the hair in the new configuration, wherein the
composition includes a thermoplastic oligomer capable
of hardening rapidly after polymerization, while the
hair is in a desired configuration, upon removal of the
thermal appliance from the hair, to provide a durable
hair set capable of repeated reconfiguration without
substantial set loss.
Another aspect of the present invention is to provide
a safe oligomer composition in the form of a mousse,
foam, lotion or gel that includes water and/or or other
cosmetically acceptable solvents, e.g., alcohol in an
amount of about 1% to about 99.5% by weight of the
composition; and a thermoplastic oligomer that is solu-
bilized or dispersed in the water and/or solvent carrier
in an amount of about 0.1% to about 99.5%.
The above and other aspects and advantages of the
present invention will become more apparent from the
following detailed description of the preferred embodi-
ments.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE
PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
The oligomers or prepolymers useful in the composi-
tions and methods of the present invention are polymer-
izable oligomers or prepolymers that are polymerizable
while in contact with human hair resulting in polymers
that improve one or more mechanical or surface proper-
ties of the hair.
The preferred oligomers are reactive urethanes and
urethane-acrylate oligomers, particularly the urethane-
acrylate oligomers. Urethane oligomers and urethane-
acrylate oligomers are commercially available as radia-
tion-curable prepolymers. The urethane-acrylates, in
particular, are preferred and are prepared by reacting
one or more polyols with one or more disocyanates and
end-capping with a hydroxyalkyl acrylate. These ure-
thane-acrylate prepolymers result in crystal clear poly-
mers and can be prepared with mixed soft and hard
segments to provide the desired mechanical properties,
as disclosed in Lai and Baccei’s article, “Synthesis and
Structure-Property Relationships of UV-Curable Ure-
thane Prepolymers With Hard-Soft-Hard Bloc ”,
Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Vol. 42, pp.
2039-2044 (1991) and U.S. Pat. No. 4,309,526, both
hereby incorporated by reference. The urethane-acry-
late prepolymers that are end-capped with acrylate
groups, are readily polymerized, in-situ, with an initia-
tor, such as benzoyl proxide or benzoin methyl ether,
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with ultraviolet light. Dried urethane prepolymer films
ca.n be provided on the hair and the films polymerized
with ultraviolet light.
The reaction between hydroxyl and isocyanate
groups proceeds efficiently at low temperatures with-
out the evolution of volatile by-products. One of the
simplest radiation curable urethane-acrylate prepoly-
mers is formed with the end-capping reaction of 2 moles
of an hydroxy acrylate, for example, hydroxy ethyl
acrylate or hydroxy propyl acrylate with 1 mole of a
diisocyanate. Such a product will be highly viscous and
produce cured films which are very hard and inflexible
but also highly chemical resistant.
Two main classes of isocyanates are available: aro-
matic, e.g., toluene diisocyanate, and aliphatic, e.g.,
isophorone diisocyanate. Aromatic isocyanates result in
higher viscosity urethanes. An improvement in perfor-
mance and processability is achieved by incorporating
an aliphatic-based isocyanate.
The opportunities for tailor making urethane-acry-
lates with different characteristics and levels of perfor-
mance include, e.g., improvement in flexibility by chain
extension using long chain (C12—C22), diols, polyethers,
polyesters or polycarbonates to produce a higher mo-
lecular weight isocyanate functional prepolymer which
is subsequently capped by a hydroxy acrylate monomer.
Some of the useful radiation-curable urethane-acry-
late oligomers can be obtained commercially from Hen-
kel Corporation, Ambler, Pa.-—particula.rly, the ali-
phatic urethane-acrylates, e.g., PHOTOMER 6008,
6008-T; 6010; 6019; 6022; 6060; 6110; 6160; 6184; 6210;
6230; and 6264. Other resilient to hard aliphatic ure-
thane-acrylate oligomers can be obtained from SAR-
TOMER Corporation as Sartomer CN 961 (resilient);
CN 964 (resilient); CN 960 (hard); CN 962 (flexible);
CN 965 (flexible); and aromatic urethane-acrylate oligo-
mers, also can be obtained from SARTOMER as CN
970 (hard); CN 971 (resilient); and CN 972 (flexible). As
an example of a commercially available urethane oligo-
mer, mention may be made of “Uvithane” (trademark of
Thiokol Speciality Chemical Division).
The oligomers that may be used include, for example,
the commercially available low molecular weight oligo-
mers, e.g., urethanes such as those having a molecular
weight ranging from about 600 to about 8,000 or 10,000,
and particularly those containing no reactive isocyanate
groups; the epoxies; and the polymethacrylates. The
preferred oligomers have a degree of polymerization
(dp) in the range of about 2 to about 200. The urethanes,
especially the acrylated urethanes, being particularly
preferred. Other oligomers that are particularly useful
include any prepolymer that is hydroxy terminated or
amino terminated. Other prepolymers which are partic-
ularly useful include thiol containing material; cross-
linkable polydimethylsiloxanes; or crosslinking poly-
acrylates.
Useful photoinitiators are also well known in the art
and include peroxo and diazo compounds, and the aro-
matic ketones such as benzophenone.
Also useful are the allyl thermosetting oligomers,
particularly the glycol bis(allyl phthalate) and the gly-
col bis(diallyl phthalate) and glycol bis(isophthalate)
oligomers to produce a diallyl phthalate polymer, poly-
merized in contact with the hair, having improved flexi-
bility. Also useful are functional triglyceride oils, such
as corn oil and tallow oil and castor oil, having func-
tionalities including hydroxy groups and epoxy or oxi-
rane groups. Triglyceride oils have glycerol as a back-
5,362,486
7
bone and three fatty acids as side chains. These oils
react directly with many chemical reagents yielding
polyurethane or polyester polymer networks. Castor oil
contains three hydroxyl groups, one on each acid resi-
due: 5
(IJH
CH2-O-C-(CI-I2)7-CH=CH--CH;-CH—(CH2)5—CI-I3
I in’ ‘RH
CH—0-C—(CH2)7— CH=CH—CH2-CH-(CH2)5-CH3
I if ‘EH
CH2-O--C-(CH2)7— CH=CH--CI-I2-CI-I-(CI-I2)5-CH3
0
ll
10
Other suitable triglyceride oils include vernonia oil, 15
which is a triglyceride oil that naturally contains 80%
epoxy groups on an acid residue basis, and ordinary
triglyceride oils, such as linseed oil, whose double
bonds are epoxidized.
Another oil of interest is lesquerella oil, which comes
from a desert wild flower native to Arizona, and known
locally as pop weeds or bladder pods. This oil is similar
to castor oil, except that it has two more —CH2—
groups in between the glycerol and hydroxyl groups.
Consequently, its polymers tend to have slightly lower
glass transition temperatures.
In addition to esterification, these oils can also be
reacted with isocyanates to make polyurethanes. Some
of the most interesting oligomers consist of mixed ester-
urethane compositions, wherein the ester portion is
made before gelation and wherein the water can be
evaporated easily, and the urethane component is added
as a type of postcure.
An interpenetrating polymer network, IPN, can be
defined as a combination of two polymers in network
form, at least one of which was polymerized or synthe-
sized in the presence of the other. These networks are
synthesized sequentially in time. A simultaneous inter-
penetrating network, SIN, is an IPN in which both
networks are synthesized simultaneously in time, or
both monomers or prepolymers mixed prior to gelation.
The two polymerizations are independent and non-
interfering in an SIN, so that grating or internetwork
crosslinking is minimized.
In the simultaneous interpenetrating networks (SIN),
the two reactions are rim simultaneously. One reaction,
for example, can be a polyesterification or a polyure-
thane stepwise reaction.
Of particular interest are water-soluble polycarbam-
oyl sulfonate oligomers having a degree of polymeriza-
tion of 2 to about 200. Such oligomers are commercially
available as SYNTI-IAPPRET BAP from Miles of
Pittsburgh, Pa. The polycarbamoyl sulfonates can be
used together with other oligomers, such as the poly-
acrylates or while crosslinking a polydimethylsiloxane
in-situ.
Other oligomers of particular interest are the self-
crosslinking vinyl polyacrylates, such as the PRIMAL
Series of Oligomers sold by Rohm and Haas of Philadel-
phia, Pa. Suitable prepolymers with thiol groups in-
clude the OLIGAN Series of prepolymers from Ciba-
Geigy of Basel, Switzerland.
Acrylic (ethylenic) oligomers, having a degree of
polymerization from about 2 to about 200, particularly
about 2 to about 20, are suitable in accordance with the 65
present invention.
The ethylenic oligomers are solubilized or dispersed
in a suitable carrier, a crosslinking agent, and a thermal
20
25
30
35
45
50
55
8
and/or redox initiator is separately added or activated
with heat or light just prior to or just after hair contact.
One or more emulsifying agents can be included in the
oligomer composition, if necessary, to disperse a water
or solvent-insoluble oligomer.
An acrylic (ethylenic) oligomer may be mixed with a
polyvinyl monomer crosslinking agent in an aqueous or
hydroalcoholic solution. The solution is subjected to a
polymerization reaction and/ or a crosslinking reaction
by the addition of a polymerization initiator just prior to
hair application or applied to the hair separately, and
the polymerization reaction proceeds. The oligomer
solution can be prepared easily by reacting an ethylenic
prepolymer, with or without a crosslinking agent, in
water or water and solvent, e.g., alcohol, to form an
oligomer solution.
The polyvinyl monomer crosslinking agent should be
miscible with or soluble in water, alcohol or other cos-
metically acceptable solvent(s) so that the monomer
will be uniformly dissolved or dispersed in the solution
of the oligomer solution. Examples of such polyvinyl
monomers include bisacrylamides such as N,N’-
methylenebisacrylamide and N,N'-methylenebismetha-
crylamide; polyacrylic (or polymethacrylic) acid esters
represented by the following formula (I); and diacryla-
mides. Among these especially preferable are N,N’-
methylenebisacrylamide, N,N'-methylenebismetha-
crylamide and like bisacrylamides.
CH2=CH
I I-I(l3=CI-I2
o=c—o—x 0-c=o k
wherein x is ethylene, propylene, trimethylene, hexa-
methylene, 2 -hydroxypropylene, (CH2CH2O),,CH2C-
H2— or
Formula (I)
rm es
'(-CH7_—CH—O),,,CH2—CI-1-,
n and m are each an integer of from 5 to 40, and k is 1
or 2.
The compounds of the formula (I) are prepared by
reacting polyols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene
glycol, trimethylolpropane, 1,6-hexanediol, glycerin,
pentaerythritol, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene
glycol, with acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.
The compounds of the formula (II):
CI-I2='(l2I-I }IC=CI-I2
O=C—NH(CH2CH2NH),C=O
wherein 1 is 2 or 3.
are obtained by reacting polyalkylene polyamides,
such as diethylenetriamine and triethylenetetramine,
with acrylic acid.
The polyvinyl monomer crosslinking agent is used in
an amount of about 0,001 to 2.0 wt. % of the amount of
oligomers in the aqueous mixture. Preferably, the cross-
linking agent is present in the aqueous solution in an
amount of at least 0.2 wt. % based on the total weight of
oligomers.
A reaction initiator can be added to the oligomer
solution/ dispersion just prior to use, or is applied to the
hair from a separate application for polymerization and
5,362,486
9
crosslinking, or activated with heat or light. Various
polymerization initiators, such as peroxo or diazo com-
pounds are usable which are known for use in preparing
polyacrylates. Examples of useful initiators are redox
initiators comprising a reducing agent, such as a sulfite
or bisulfite of an alkali metal, ammonium sulfite or am-
monium bisulfite, and an initiator, such as a persulfate of
an alkali metal or ammonium persulfate, in combination
with the reducing agent; azo and/or diazo initiators
incuding azobis-isobutyronitrile, 4-t-buty1azo-4’-cyano-
valeric acid, 4,4’-azobis(4-cyanovaleric acid) and 2,2’-
azobis(2-amidinopropane)-hydrochloric acid salt; and
the like. These initiators can be used singly or in a suit-
able combination. Of these, especially preferable are a
redox initiator composed of ammonium persulfate and
sodium hydrogen-sulfite, and azo initiators such as azo-
bisisobutyronitrile and 2,2’-azobis(2-amidinopropane)-
hydrochloric acid. These initiators are advantageously
used usually in the form of an aqueous solution but can
be used as diluted with a suitable solvent. The initiator
is used in a usual amount, i.e., in an amount, calculated
as solids, of about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably about
0.5 to about 5%, of the combined weight of the oligo-
mers. Depending on the amount and kind of the initia-
tor, the initiator is usable together with isopropyl alco-
hol, alkylmercaptan or other chain transfer agents, in
usual amounts of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of
the oligomers in the composition, to control the molec-
ular weight of the polymer, e.g., polyacrylate to be
obtained.
The polymerization reaction for polyacrylates is exo-
thermic so that after initial heating, or by including a
small amount of a thermal initiator, further heating
should be unnecessary, but is useful to speed the poly-
merization reaction. With other oligomers, heating can
be sustained to achieve evaporation of solvents from the
reaction product.
In accordance with one embodiment, the oligomers
or prepolymers, after in-situ polymerization, result in
thermoplastic polymers that do not chemically degrade
upon repeated heating and cooling. These polymers,
after in-situ polymerization, therefore, are exceptionally
suitable for thermo-styling of hair with curling irons,
hot crimpers, rollers, and any other heating device used
in hair styling. In this embodiment, shaping of the hair
is best accomplished by first applying the oligomer
composition to hair while wet, polymerizing the oligo-
mer in-situ, while in contact with the hair, allowing the
hair to dry, and then physically shaping the hair with
the hot styling aid. The heat softens the resin, thereby
allowing it to spread along the hair shaft and acquire the
configuration of the hot styling aid. After removing the
hot styling aid, the resin hardens on individual hair
shafts, maintaining the hair hi the shape imparted by the
styling aid. Because of the thermal stability of the ther-
moplastic resins, the hair can be restyled at any time,
adding a convenience which is not possible to obtain
with conventional hair fixative resins.
In accordance with another important feature of the
present invention, any ionizable metal salt, wherein the
metal has a valence of at least II, can be included in the
composition, in an amount of about 0.1% to about 10%
based on the weight of oligomer(s) in the composition,
for in-situ oligomer crosslinking, to improve durability
of the mechanical or surface property improvement
imparted to the hair by the oligomer. Hair treated with
the oligomer compositions of the present invention
adjusted to a pH above about 7.0, preferably above
5
l0
15
20
25
30
35
45
50
55
65
10
about 8.0, and containing an ionizable metal salt exhibits
improved mechanical and surface properties, such as
body and shine if the metal of the ionizable metal salt
has a valence of at least II.
The oligomer can be crosslinked in-situ with polyva-
lent metal compounds such as those described in U.S.
Pat. No. 3,850,178, hereby incorporated by reference.
Other useful polyvalent metal compounds include those
described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,036,241, at lower pH’s, and
this assignee’s U.S. Pat. No. 4,960,588, both patents
hereby incorporated by reference. A crosslinked poly-
mer composition is obtained by first solubilizing or
dispersing the resin in water aud/ or a solvent, such as
ethanol, adding ammonium hydroxide to pH 9.0 or
higher, and then adding potassium or ammonium alum.
The composition then is applied onto the hair, the hair
is allowed to dry, and the oligomer is polymerized and
crosslinked in-situ while in contact with the hair.
The polydimethylsiloxanes are one example of a ma-
terial that can be crosslinked in-situ. The amino and/or
silanol functional polydimethylsiloxanes can be ob-
tained from Dow Chemical and are particularly suit-
able. These materials can be crosslinked in-situ by in-
cluding a standard amount up to about 1% by weight of
a suitable catalyst together with the crosslinking agent.
It is preferred to keep the level of surfactants in the
oligomer composition as low as possible (preferably less
than about 5% by weight and, more preferably, less
than about 3% by weight). Sandoperm FE or any other
water-dispersible silicone, or other conditioning agent,
can be added for conditioning benefits. Fragrance pref-
erably is added last. Mousse compositions can be placed
in a mousse can or bottle and charged with propellant.
Propellants can be any of the gases known in the art. It
is preferred to use dimethyl ether (DME) or blends of
DME with a hydrocarbon gas.
In accordance with one embodiment, the oligomer or
prepolymer composition of the present invention also
optionally includes from about 0.1% to about 10%,
particularly about 0.5% to about 10%, and preferably
from about 1.0% to about 5.0%, by weight of a non-
volatile silicone compound or other conditioning
agent(s), preferably a water-insoluble, emulsifiable con-
ditioning agent. The preferred non-volatile silicone
compound is a polydimethylsiloxane compound, such
as a mixture, in about a 3:1 weight ratio, of a low molec-
ular weight polydimethylsiloxane fluid and a higher
molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane gum. The non-
volatile polydimethylsiloxane compound is added to the
composition of the present invention in an amount suffi-
cient to provide improved combing and improved feel
(softness) to the hair after shampooing. As referred to
herein, “silicone gums” are those nonfunctional silox-
anes having a viscosity of from about 5 to about 600,000
centistokes at 25° C. The so-called rigid silicones, as
described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,902,499, herein incorpo-
rated by reference, having a viscosity above 600,000
centistokes at 20° C., e.g., 700,000 centistokes plus, and
a weight average molecular weight of at least about
500,000 also are useful in accordance with the present
invention.
As mentioned previously, the silicone materials may
be used as prepolymers, as well as conditioning agents.
This is not deleterious to the composition, however,
since the silicones will be active participants in the in-
situ polymerization making the conditioning benefits
more long lasting.
5,362,486
11
Preferred silicone gums include linear and branched
polydimethylsiloxanes, of the following general for-
mula:
(CH3)35i0—[Si(CH3)20ln—Si(CH3)3 ,
wherein n is from about 2,000 to about 15,000, prefera-
bly from about 2,000 to about 7,000. Silicone gums
useful in compositions of the present invention are avail-
able from a variety of commercial sources, including
General Electric Company and Dow Coming.
Another particularly suitable conditioning agent that
can be included in the oligomer or prepolymer compo-
sition of the present invention is a volatile hydrocarbon,
such as a hydrocarbon including from about 10 to about
30 carbon atoms, that has sufficient volatility to slowly
volatilize from the hair after application of the aerosol
or non-aerosol styling aid composition. The volatile
hydrocarbons provide essentially the same benefits as
the silicone conditioning agents.
The preferred volatile hydrocarbon compound is an
aliphatic hydrocarbon including from about 12 to about
24 carbon atoms, and having a boiling point in the range
of from about 100° C. to about 300° C. Exemplary vola-
tile hydrocarbons are depicted in general structural
formula (I), wherein n ranges from 2 to 5,
?H3 (EH3 (I)
H3C-(-C—(l3H2—),.CH--CH3
CH3
Examples of volatile hydrocarbons useful in the com-
position of the present invention are the commercially-
available compounds PERMETHYL 99A and PER-
METHYL 101A, corresponding to compounds of gen-
eral structure (I) wherein n is 2 and 3, respectively,
available from Permethyl Corporation, Frazer, Pa. A
volatile hydrocarbon compound is useful in the compo-
sition of the present invention either alone, in combina-
tion with another volatile hydrocarbon, or in combina-
tion with a volatile silicone.
Examples of other suitable water-insoluble condition-
ing agents that can be incorporated into the styling aid
composition of the present invention include the follow-
ing: polysiloxane polyether copolymers; polysiloxane
polydimethyl dimethylammonium acetate copolymers;
acetylated lanolin alcohols; dimethyl dialkyl ammonium
chlorides; modified alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium
chlorides; lauryl dimethylamine oxide; stearyl dimethyl
10
15
20
25
30
35
45
benzyl ammonium chloride; a lanolin-derived extract of 50
sterol on sterol esters; lanolin alcohol concentrate; an
isopropyl ester of lanolin fatty acids; sulfur rich amino
acid concentrates; isopropyl ester of lanolin fatty acids;
cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; oleyl dimethyl
benzyl ammonium chloride; oleyl alcohol; stearyl alco-
hol; stearamidopropyl dimethyl myristyl acetate; a
polyol fatty acid; a fatty amido amine; guar hydroxy-
propyltrimonium chloride; cetyl/stearyl alcohol;
quatemized protein; keratin protein derivatives; isos-
tearamidopropyl dimethylamine; stearamidopropyl di-
methylamine; cetrimonium bromide; myrtrimonium
bromide; stearalkonium chloride; cetyl trimethyl am-
monium chloride; laurylpyridinium chloride; tris-
(o1igoxyethyl)alkyl ammonium phosphate; an amino-
55
functional silicone; lapyrium chloride; isopropyl ester of 65
lanolic acids; ethoxylated (30) castor oil; acetylated
lanolin alcohol; fatty alcohol fraction of lanolin; a min-
eral oil and lanolin alcohol mixture; high molecular
12
weight esters of lanolin; quaternium-75; vinylpyr-
rolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer;
alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; 5 mole ethylene
oxide adduct of soya sterol; 10 mole ethylene oxide
adduct of soya sterol; stearic acid ester of ethoxylated
(20 mole) methyl glucoside; sodium salt of polyhydrox-
ycarboxylic acid; hydroxylated lanolin; cocamidopro-
pyl dimethylamine lactate; cocamidopropyl dimethyl-
amine propionate; cocamidopropyl morpholine lactate;
isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine lactate; isos-
tearamidopropyl morpholine lactate; oleamidopropyl
dimethylamine lactate; linoleamidopropyl dimethylam-
ine lactate; stearamidopropyl dimethylamine lactate,
ethylene glycol monostearate and propylene glycol
mixture; stearamidopropyl dimethylamine lactate; acet-
amide MEA; lactamide MEA; stearamide MEA; behe-
nalkonium chloride; behenyl trimethyl ammonium me-
thosulfate and cetearyl alcohol mixture; cetearyl alco-
hol; isostearamidopropalkonium chloride; linoleamido-
propalkonium chloride; oleyl dimethyl benzyl ammo-
nium chloride; tallow imidazolinum methosulfate; stea-
ryl trimonium methosulfate; mixed ethoxylated and
propoxylated long chain alcohols; stearamidopropyl
dimethylamine lactate; polonitomine oxide; oleamine
oxide; stearamine oxide; soya ethyldimonium ethosu1-
fate; hydroxypropyl bislauryl dimonium chloride; hy-
droxypropyl biscetyl dimonium chloride; hydroxypro-
pyl bisstearyl dimonium chloride; hydroxypropyl bis-
behenyl dimonium chloride; ricinolamidopropyl ethyl-
dimonium ethosulfate; olealkonium chloride; stearalk-
onium chloride; N-(3-isostearamidopropyl)-N,N-
dimethyl amino glycolate; N-(3-isostearamidopropy1)-
N,N dimethyl amino gluconate; hydrolyzed animal
keratin; ethyl hydrolyzed animal keratin; stearyl ammo-
nium chloride; stearamidoethyl diethylamine;
cocamidopropyl dimethylamine; lauramidopropyl di-
methylamine; oleamidopropyl dimethylamine; pal-
mitamidopropyl dimethylamine; stearamidopropyl di-
methylamine lactate; avocado oil; sweet almond oil,
grape seed oil; jojoba oil; apricot kernel oil; sesame oil;
hybrid safflower oil; wheat germ oil; cocamidoamine
lactate; ricinoleamido amine lactate; stearamido amine
lactate; stearamido morpholine lactate; isostearamido
amine lactate; isostearamido morpholine lactate; wheat
germamido dimethylamine lactate; behenamidopropyl
betaine; ricinoleamidopropyl betaine; wheat ger-
mamidopropyl dimethylamine oxide; disodium isos-
tearaimido MEA sulfosuccinate; disodium oleamide
PEG—2 sulfosuccinate; disodium oleamide MEA sulfo-
succinate; disodium ricinoleyl MEA sulfosuccinate;
disodium wheat germamido MEA sulfosuccinate; diso-
dium wheat germamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinate;
stearamido amine; stearamido morpholine; isos-
tearamido amine; isostearamido morpholine; polyethyl-
ene glycol (400) mono and distearates; synthetic cal-
cium silicate; isostearic alkanolamide; ethyl esters of
hydrolyzed animal protein; blend of cetyl and stearyl
alcohols with ethoxylated cetyl or stearyl alcohols;
amido amines; polyamido amines; palmityl amido beta-
ine; propoxylated (1-20 moles) lanolin alcohols; isos-
tearamide DEA; and hydrolyzed collagen protein. The
presence of oligomer-reactive group(s) on any of these
conditioning agents allows the conditioning agent to
react with the oligomer during in-situ polymerization
for incorporation into the polymer.
When one or more of these water-insoluble condi-
tioning agents is included in the composition of the
5,362,486
13
present invention, preferably in an amount of about
0.5% to about 3% by total weight of the composition,
the composition also can include a suspending agent for
the conditioning agent, in an amount of about 0.5% to
about 5%, by total weight of the composition. Such
suspending agents also may be useful for suspending
solvent-insoluble oligomers. The particular suspending
agent is not critical and can be selected from any materi-
als known to suspend water or solvent-insoluble liquids
in shampoo compositions. Suitable suspending agents
are for example, distearyl amate (distearyl phthalamic
acid); fatty acid alkanolamides; esters of polyols and
sugars; polyethylene glycols; the‘ ethoxylated or pro-
poxylated alkylphenols; ethoxylated or propoxylated
fatty alcohols; and the condensation products of ethyl-
ene oxide with long chain amides. These suspending
agents, as well as numerous others not cited herein, are
well known in the art and are fully described in the
literature, such as McCUTCHEON’S DETERGENTS
AND EMULSIFIERS, 1989 Annual, published by
McCutcheon Division, MC Publishing Co.
A nonionic, water-soluble alkanolamide also is op-
tionally included preferably in an amount of about 0.1%
to about 3% by weight in the styling aid compositions
that include a conditioning agent to provide exception-
ally stable emulsification of water-insoluble condition-
ing agents and to aid in thickening. Suitable water-solu-
ble alkanolamides include, but are not limited to, those
known in the art of hair care formulations, such as coca-
mide monoethanolarnide (MEA), cocamide diethano1-
amide (DEA), soyamide DEA, lauramide DEA, olea-
mide monoisopropylamide (MIPA), stearamide MEA,
myristamide MEA, lauramide MEA, capramide DEA,
ricinoleamide DEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide
DEA, oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA, lauramide
MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA, isos-
tearamide MEA and combinations thereof. Other suit-
able suspending agents are disclosed in Oh et al. U.S.
Pat. No. 4,704,272; Grote et al. U.S. Pat. No. 4,741,855;
and Bolich, Jr. et al. U.S. Pat. No. 4,788,006, which
patents are hereby incorporated by reference.
Emulsion stabilizers also may be used in compositions
of the invention. Useful examples include, such com-
pounds as polyethylene glycol, silicone copolyols, poly-
vinyl alcohol, sorbitan monostearate, oleth-2, sorbitan
monolaurate, and nonionic block copolymers of ethyl-
ene oxide and propylene oxide such as those marketed
by BASF Wyandotte under the name PLURONICS ®.
When present, such stabilizers comprise from about
0.05% to about 1%, preferably from about 0.1% to
about 0.8%, by weight of the composition.
The propellant gas included in the aerosol mousse
forms of the compositions of the present invention can
be any liquifiable gas conventionally used for aerosol
mousse containers. Examples of materials that are suit-
able for use as propellants are dimethyl ether, propane,
n-butane and isobutane, and other water-soluble hydro-
carbon gases used singly or admixed. Water-soluble
gases such as dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, and/or
nitrous oxide also can be used to obtain aerosols having
reduced flammability.
Other insoluble, compressed gases such as nitrogen,
helium and fully-fluorinated oxetanes and oxepanes also
are useful to deliver the compositions from aerosol
containers. _
The amount of the propellant gas is governed by
normal factors well known in the aerosol mousse art.
For mousses, the level of propellant is generally from
10
15
20
25
30
35
45
50
55
65
14
about 3% to about 30%, preferably from about 5% to
about 15% of the total composition. If a propellant such
as dimethyl ether utilizes a vapor pressure suppressant
(e.g., trichlorethane or dichloromethane), for weight
percentage calculations, the amount of suppressant is
included as part of the propellant. ‘
Other common cosmetic additives can be incorpo-
rated with the essential ingredients of the present inven-
tion, as long as the capability of polymerizing the oligo-
mers in-situ is not adversely affected. These additives
include, but are not limited to, commonly used fra-
grances, dyes, opacifiers, pearlescing agents, preserva-
tives, water softening agents, acids, bases, sequestering
agents, buffers and the like; and will usually be present
in weight percentages of less than about 1% each, and
about 2% to about 5% in total. Suitable solvents include
the lower alcohols like ethanol and isopropanol; polyols
like glycerol; glycols or glycol ethers, like 2-butoxye-
thanol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl
ether, propylene glycol and diethylene glycol mono-
methyl ether; and mixtures thereof. These solvents can
be present in the hair setting composition of the present
invention in an amount from about 1% to about 99.5%
by weight.
The compositions can be thickened, for example,
with, in addition to the alkanolamides described above,
sodium alginate, guar gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic,
cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydrox-
ybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxy-
propylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and vari-
ous polymeric thickeners, such as acrylic acid deriva-
tives. It is also possible to use inorganic thickeners such
as bentonite. These thickeners are preferably present in
the amount from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight
and, in particular, from about 0.5% to about 3% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions also can include anionic, amphe-
teric or nonionic surfactants, to impart cleansing and/ or
emulsifying properties to the composition. Likewise,
the compositions can contain other emulsifiers, fatty
alcohols, humectants, cationic surfactants, such as ce-
trimonium chloride, and similar materials to provide
conditioning properties, aesthetic properties and desir-
able physical properties to the composition.
For example, representative nonionic surfactants in-
clude esters or polyols and sugars; the polyethoxylated
and/or polypropoxylated alkylphenols; the polyhy-
droxylated polyethers of fatty alcohols; and the conden-
sation products of ethylene oxide with long chain mer-
captans or long chain amides. Similarly, representative
anionic surfactants include alkali metal salts, ammonium
salts or salts of amines or amino alcohols of fatty acids
such as oleic acid; of the sulfates of fatty alcohols, prin-
cipally C12—C14 and C15 fatty alcohols; of the sulfates of
polyethoxylated fatty alcohols; the alkylbenzenesulfon-
ates, such as those wherein the alkyl moiety has about
12 to about 22 carbon atoms; or the alkylarylpolyether
sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates. All these nonionic
and anionic surfactants, as well as numerous others not
cited here, are well known in the art and are fully de-
scribed in the literature.
The alcohol solvent that may be employed in the
composition preferably is an aliphatic straight or
branched chain monohydric alcohol having 2 to about 4
carbon atoms. Isopropanol and especially ethanol are
preferred. The concentration of the alcohol in the com-
position can be from about 3% to about 99.5% by
5,362,486
15
weight, preferably about 5% to about 50% by weight
and more preferably about 5% to about 25% by weight.
Where oligomer precipitation in the composition
occurs at a higher alcohol and/or glycol percentage,
compatible suspending stabilizing agents can be in- 5
cluded. The polymer solutions/ dispersions are stable at
a pH value between 1 and 12, although a pH value
between 3 and 9 are desired in personal care products.
A number of adjuvants such as surfactants, emollients,
silicones, monovalent mineral salts fragrance, can be
added as desired.
EXPERIMENTAL
Preparation of In-situ Hydrophobic
Polyurethane-Acrylate Hair Bodifying and Set
Retention Polymer
10
15
Five grams of a urethane-acrylate oligomer is mixed
with 6 grams of ethanol and 1 gram of octyl dimethyl
p-aminobenzoic acid (UV light absorber) in a first com-
position and the mixture is shaken vigorously. In a sec-
ond composition, 0.4 gram (78% active) benzoyl perox-
ide (ground powder) and 14.8 grams of ethanol were
mixed as a polymerization initiator. The two composi-
tions are combined as a mixed solution using 7.6 grams
of the first composition and 2.4 grams of the second
composition immediately prior to application to rolled
hair tresses. The hair tresses are dipped into the mixed
solution and then the tresses are heated at about 40° C.
for about 45 minutes in an oven in a weight ratio of the
composition to hair of 1:1. Some tresses are pretreated 30
with a spray of 10.5 pH NI-I4OH. The bulk volume of
the hair (bodifying) is substantially increased with and
without the pretreatment. After washing, the body of
the hair remained substantially increased and remained
soft.
20
25
35
EXAMPLE 1
ANHYDROUS FORMULATION
WEIGHT %
PHASE A
URETHANE-ACRYLATE
OLIGOMER
REAGENT ALCOHOL
OCTYL DIMETHYL
PABA (ESCALOL 507)
PHASE 13
BENZOYL PEROXIDE (78%)
(CADET BPO-78)
REAGENT ALCOHOL 74.0
PRECEDURE: Dissolve all components in Phase A in a
vial by simple stirring. Best to add
oligomer to alcohol-PABA mixture.
Weigh benzoyl peroxide and place into
a glass mortar. Grind benzoyl peroxide
with ethanol to disperse. Add Phase B
to Phase A and shake vial.
10.0
12.0
2.0 45
2.0
50
55
PRECEDURE: Dissolve all components in Phase A
in a vial by simple stirring. Best to add oligomer to
alcohol-PABA mixture. Weigh benzoyl peroxide and
place into a glass mortar. Grind benzoyl peroxide with
ethanol to disperse. Add Phase B to Phase A and shake
vial.
What is claimed is:
1. A method of treating human hair for increased
polymer durability comprising:
applying to said hair an oligomeric compound formed
by end capping a urethane oligomer with a bisulfite
or an acrylate group, wherein the oligomer has a
65.
16
degree of polymerization in the range of about 2 to
200, and contains no free isocyanate; and
polymerizing the oligomer while said oligomer is in
contact with said hair to form, in-situ, a polymer
adhered to said hair.
2. A method as defined in claim 1, wherein the oligo-
meric compound is a urethane-acrylate.
3. A method as defmed in claim 2, wherein the ure-
thane is formed from a polyfunctional hydroxyl com-
pound and an aliphatic diisocyanate.
4. A method as defined in claim 2, wherein the oligo-
meric compound is a urethane oligomer end capped
with a hydroxyl-containing acrylate monomer.
5. A method as defined in claim 1, wherein the oligo-
mer is a polycarbamoyl sulfonate formed by end cap-
ping a urethane oligomer with a bisulfite moiety.
6. A method as defmed in claim 11 further including
another oligomer selected from the group consisting of
a polyurethane; a po1y(urethaneacrylate); a polyacrylic
oligomer and a self-crosslinking polyacrylate.
7. A method as defmed in claim 1 further including
the step of adding a reaction initiator to the composition
in an amount of about 0% to about 5% by weight of the
composition.
8. A method as defmed in claim 7, wherein the initia-
tor is a compound selected from the group consisting of
peroxo, diazo, sulfite, bisulfite, persulfate and mixtures
thereof.
9. A method as defmed in claim 8 further including
adding a chain transfer agent in an amount of about
0.1% to about 5% by weight of the oligomer(s) in the
composition.
10. A method as defined in claim 8, wherein the chain
transfer agent is selected from the group consisting of
isopropyl alcohol, an alkylmercaptan, and mixtures
thereof.
11. A method as defined in claim 1 further including
adding an ionizable metal salt in an amount of about
0.1% to about 10% of the weight of oligomers in the
composition wherein the metal has a valence of at least
II, for in-situ crosslinking of the oligomer, and wherein
the composition has a pH above about 7.0.
12. A method of treating human hair for increased
polymer durability comprising:
applying to said hair an oligomeric compound formed
by end capping a urethane oligomer with an acry-
late group, wherein the oligomer has a degree of
polymerization in the range of about 2 to 200, and
contains no free isocyanate; and
polymerizing the oligomer while said oligomer is in
contact with said hair to form, in-situ, a polymer
adhered to said hair.
13. A method as defmed in claim 12, wherein the
urethane oligomer is formed from a polyfunctional hy-
droxyl compound and an aliphatic diisocyanate.
14. A method as defmed in claim 12, wherein the
oligomeric compound is a urethane oligomer end
capped with a hydroxyl-containing acrylate monomer.
15. A method as defmed in claim 12 further including
the step of adding a reaction initiator to the composition
in an amount of about 0.1% to about 10% of the weight
of the oligomers in the composition.
16. A method as defmed in claim 15, wherein the
reaction initiator is included in an amount of about 0.5%
to about 5% of the weight of the oligomers in the com-
position.
5,362,486
17
17. A method as defmed in claim 15, wherein the
initiator is a compound selected from the group consist-
ing of peroxo, diazo, sulfite, bisulfite, persulfate and
mixtures thereof. '
18. A method as defmed in claim 12 further including
adding a chain transfer agent in an amount of about
0.1% to about 5% by weight of the o1igomer(s) in the
composition.
19. A method as defined in claim 18, wherein the
chain transfer agent is selected from the group consist-
10
15
20
25
30
35
45
50
55
65
18
ing of isopropyl alcohol, an alkylmercaptan, and mix-
tures thereof.
20. A method as defmed in claim 12 further including
adding an ionizable metal salt in an amount of about
0.1% to about 10% of the weight of oligomers in the
composition wherein the metal has a valence of at least
II, for in-situ crosslinking of the oligomer, and wherein
the composition has a pH above about 7.0.
* * * * *
UNITED STATES PATENT AND TRADEMARK OFFICE
CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION
PATENT NO. 2 5,352,435
DATED : November 8, 1994
lNVENT0R(3) 3 Nandagiri, et 9.1
It is certified that error appears in the above-indentified patent and that said Letters Patent is hereby
corrected as shown below:
Column 3, line 38, after "No." delete "4,682,616" and substitute
therefor -- 4,682,612 --;
Column 8. line 61, after “about” delete "0,001" and substitute
therefor -- 0.001 ——;
Column 9, line 10, delete -- incuding -- and substitute
therefor -- including ——; and
Column 15, lines 57-62, 'PRECEDURE: Dissolve all components in Phase A
in a vial by simple stirring. Best to add oligomer to alcohol-PABA mixture. Weigh
benzoyl peroxide and place into a glass mortar. Grind benzoyl peroxide with ethanol to
disperse. Add Phase B to Phase A and shake vial. --
Column 15, line 50, "Precedure" should read ——Procedure -—.
Signed and Sealed this
Fourth Day of April, 1995
fiwzwu
BRUCE LEHMAN
Arresting Ofifcer Cammisxianer of Patents and Tradtflldflt‘
UNITED STATES PATENT AND TRADEMARK _OFFICE
CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION
PATENTNO. 25,362,486
DATED ; November 8, 1994
1NVENT0R(5) I Nandagiri, et al
it is certified that error appears in the above~indentified patent and that said Letters Patent is hereby
corrected as shown below:
Column 3, line 38, after "No." delete "4,68_2,616" and substitute
therefor -- 4,682,612 -; .
Column 8, line 61, after "about" delete "0,001" and substitute
therefor -— 0.001 --;
Column 9, line 10, delete -— incuding —- and substitute
therefor —- including --; and
Column 15, lines 57-62, should be deleted.
Column 15, line 50, "Precedure" should read ——Procedure -—.
This certificate supersedes Certificate of Correction issued April 4, 1995.
Signed and Sealed this
Thirteenth Day of June, 1995
BRUCE LEHMAN
Arresting Ofiicer Commissioner of Patents and Trademarks