Composition and Method for Enhancing Fingernails
Composition and Method for Enhancing Fingernails
US4926890
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Year:
Abstract:
An artificial fingernail material is disclosed. It contains base-treated bone powder of a particular particle size in a curable adhesive. A process for applying this material to the nail by applying an adhesive, adding bone powder and repeating as needed is disclosed as is the process for preparing the particular bone powder.
Type of document:
Language:
United States Patent [191
[11]
Patent Number:
4,926,890
Hoskins [45] Date of Patent: May 22, 1990
[54] COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR 4,632,134 12/1986 Reid .................................... .. 132/73
ENHANCING FINGERNAJLS $;3C}Pb€1' 5131-
, , e1s erg . . . . . . . . . . . . . ,.
[76] Inventor: Margaret E. Hoskins, 2230 4,818,520 4/1939 Fleischner ........................... .. 424/61
Homestead Ct., #211, Los Altos,
Calif. 94022 FOREIGN PATENT DOCUMENTS
[21] Appl‘ No.-: 168,855 1111934 5/1968 United Kingdom ................ .. 424/61
. Primary Examiner——John J. Wilson
[22] F11ed: Mar. 16, 1988 A . . . .
sszstant Exammer—Adr1ene J. Lepiane
[51] Int. Cl.5 ...................................... .. A45D 29/00 Attorney, Agent, or Firm—Ire1l & Manella
[52] U.S. Cl. .................................... .. 132/73; [57] ABSTRACT
[58] Field of Search ................... .. 132/73, 200; 424/61 An artificial fingernail material is disclosed. It contains
R C, d base~treated bone powder of a partioular particle size in
[56] eferences me a curable adhesive. A process for applying this material
U.S. PATENT DOCUMENTS to the nail by applying an adhesive, adding bone pow-
3,4s3,2s9 12/1969 Michaelson ......................... .. 424/61 dc‘ and ’ePeat‘“g as mafeded ‘5 d“°‘°1°Sed as ‘S the pmcess
3,552,401 1/1971 Michaelson . . . . . . . . . .. 132/73 for PrCPa““g the Pamcular 130“ P°WdeT-
4,407,310 10/1973 Jadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 132/73
4,626,428 12/1986
Weisberg ............................ .. 424/61
11 Claims, 1 Drawing Sheet
US. Patent
May 22, 1990
4,926,890
1
COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR
ENHANCING FINGERNAILS
DESCRIPTION
1. Technical Field
This invention is in the general fields of cosmetics and
chemistry. More specifically, this invention relates to
new compositions for strengthening and/or extending
fingernails, a method for using said compositions, and a
process for preparing the compositions of the invention.
2. Background
Since time immemorial, the human fmgernail has
been an object of beauty and a source of despair. In
general, long fmgernails are suitable for polishing and
shaping into attractive forms. Often, fingernails are
grown to extraordinary lengths as a personal decoration
and symbol of status: wearing very long fingernails
implies that the wearer need not perform manual labor,
and may spend the time and resources necessary to
maintain such impractical ornamentation.
Of course, very few can actually afford to dedicate
their hands solely to beauty, yet many desire the luxury
of long fingernails. Thus, long nails are subject to the
stresses and hazards of normal use, and are frequently
chipped or broken. Further, as fingernails grow rela-
tively slowly, a great deal of time is consumed while the
nails grow out. Thus, there exists a great need and de-
sire for artificial means for lengthening and strengthen-
ing the fmgernails. In order to convey the desired image
of status, the artificial means must resemble natural nails
as closely as possible —preferably they will be indistin-
guishable from natural fingernails—yet possess superior
strength and durability. Artificial nails must accept
polish and filing in the same manner as natural nails.
Further, such artificial means should not be inconve-
nient or dangerous to wear or apply. For example, the
artificial means should not cause the existing natural nail
to crack or discolor, nor should such artificial means
promote fungal growth beneath the nail. The materials
used should not be unacceptably toxic, flammable, etc.
Finally, keeping in mind that artificial nails are to be
worn by those not having access to unlimited means,
acceptable artificial nails must not be overly expensive.
A vast array of different solutions have been tried
over the years, but the majority may be classified in one
of two categories. The first category involves attaching
a pre-formed imitation nail (fashioned from plastic or
other materials) to the natural fingernail tip with an
adhesive. In the second category, the fingernail is built
up by repeated applications of a liquid or paste-like
substance which, after drying, is filed and buffed
smooth.
The first group (“pre-formed nails”) is advantageous
insofar as its limited effect on the natural nail and
nailbed. As shown in FIG. 1 the artificial nail 6 is ap-
plied only to the fingernail tip 5 (i.e., the portion extend-
ing beyond the nailbed, the white portion of the natural
fingernail), the adhesive is unlikely to pass through the
nail to the nailbed 2, cuticle 4, or nail groove 3. This also
leaves the nailbed free to breathe, so that fungal growth
is not encouraged. However, there are several draw-
backs. As a portion of the natural fingemail is exposed,
the artificial nail must accept polish with an appearance
identical to the natural nail: any difference is immedi-
ately noticeable. Thus, the selection of artificial nail
materials is limited by surface characteristics. Addition-
ally, the artificial nail must be of a strength and durabil-
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ity equal to or exceeding that of a natural nail, without
requiring an obviously unnatural thickness. Further, the
ultimate strength of the artificial nail depends upon the
natural nail to which it is attached. The adhesive must
be selected carefully to avoid causing the natural nail to
curl or soften, yet bond the artificial nail firmly so that
it is not dislodged easily. If the adhesive sets too quickly
or too slowly, it may make proper alignment of the
artificial nail difficult or impossible. Use of this method
also presumes that there is a sufficient fingertip area to
support the artificial nail.
The second group (“matrix nails”) involves building
the natural nail up by (often) repeated applications of a
polymer or cement-like builder. Usually, a solid matrix
of some type is applied with the builder to impart
strength and rigidity, and to reduce the amount of
builder required. Typically the matrix is a fabric, such
as silk, linen, or paper. Other examples include fiber-
glass, graphite fibers (U .S. Pat. No. 4,646,765) and
rayon fiber. Alternatively, one may use a powder ma-
trix, such as powdered silica, polyester or glass. See e.g.,
U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,669,491; 4,626,428; and 4,407,310.
These forms of artificial nails avoid the durability and
matching problems inherent in pre-formed nails. How-
ever, they suffer from other difficulties. Since the
nailbed is partially or completely covered, the overly-
ing material must be such that the nailbed is not de-
prived of oxygen. Further, one must exercise greater
care in selection of the builder, as discoloration and/or
deformation of the nail overlying the nailbed takes con-
siderably longer to grow out. Also, one must avoid
building up a thick layer at the cuticle margin: other-
wise, a “depressed” portion of nail will appear at the
cuticle as the nail naturally grows out, leaving an obvi-
ous clue to the true nature of the artificial nail. FIGS. 2
and 3 illustrate this failing with matrix nails where nail
7 is as applied in FIG. 2 and as grown out in FIG. 3.
Also, as the nail must fully dry before it can be shaped
and polished, matrix nails may take considerably longer
to apply, which is a distinct disadvantage. Finally, ma-
trix nails must also accept normal polish and filing, so
that they are not distinguishable from natural finger-
nails.
Additionally, artificial fingernails of either type may
be incompatible with oils, creams, nail strengtheners,
and other common nail care products“ Further, it is
frequently impossible to employ a water manicure im-
mediately following nail application.
I have now invented a matrix composition for prepar-
ing artificial fingernails which is strong and durable,
resembles natural fingernails closely, may be painted,
polished, and filed in the same manner as natural finger-
nails, which does not exhibit deleterious effects when
applied to natural fingernails, which may be applied to
the fingernail tip or to the entire upper nail surface, and
which may be applied in a very thin layer on the portion
of the fingernail adjacent to the cuticle, thus minimizing
any depression due to natural nail growth. The matrix
nails of the invention further allow the nailbed to
breathe, and permit nail strengtheners to penetrate. The
matrix nails of the invention are also compatible with
oils, creams, and may be subjected to water manicure
shortly after application.
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
The instant invention provides a new matrix tech-
nique for lengthening and strengthening fingernails, a
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composition therefore, and a process for preparing the
composition.
In the first aspect of the invention, a matrix composi-
tion for application to fingernails is provided, which
matrix composition comprises base-treated powdered
bone having a mesh size ranging from about 325 to
about 230, preferably in combination with a cosmeti-
cally acceptable adhesive and in particular a cyanoacry-
late B adhesive.
In another aspect of the invention, a process for pre-
paring the matrix composition of the invention is pro-
vided, which process comprises providing bone pieces
of approximately 3 inches in largest dimension, heating
the bone pieces in an alkaline solution at elevated tem-
perature, rinsing the treated bone pieces, drying the
rinsed bone pieces at a temperature not exceeding about
125° C., grinding or milling the dried bone pieces to a
fine powder, and screening said bone powder to elimi-
nate particles larger than about 230 mesh and smaller
than about 325 mesh.
In another aspect, a method is provided which com-
prises applying a suitable adhesive (preferably cyanoac-
rylate B glue) to the natural fingernail, and dipping the
treated fmgernail into the matrix composition of the
invention. Optionally, these steps are repeated once to
thrice (for a total of two to four applications); further,
one may optionally apply a final coat of adhesive.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
FIG. 1 depicts in partial cutaway a finger I having a
nailbed 2, a fingernail groove 3, a cuticle 4, a fingernail
tip 5, and an artificial, preformed fingernail of the art
attached thereto 6.
FIG. 2 depicts in partial cutaway a fmger 1 having a
nailbed 2, a fingemail groove 3, a cuticle 4, a fingernail
tip 5, and a conventional artificial fingernail matrix 7.
FIG. 3 depicts the finger 1 of FIG. 2 at an interval of
time later (e.g., two weeks), exhibiting a depressed area
8 due to natural nail growth.
FIG. 4 depicts a cross-section of finger I having an
artificial nail matrix of the invention 9, illustrating the
tapering matrix 10 in the direction of the cuticle 4.
MODES OF CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
A. Definitions
The term “base-treated” as applied to bone as used
herein refers to treatment with a strongly alkaline solu-
tion at elevated temperature. Suitable bases in the prac-
tice of the invention include powdered lye, NaOI-I,
KOH, and the like. They are used in solution, prefera-
bly aqueous solution, at a concentration between about
3% and about 25%, preferably about 10%.
Preferably, the bones are boiled in 10% lye for about
1 to 2 hours, the liquid drained off, and the bones boiled
in fresh solution for an additional 1 to 2 hours. Prefera-
bly about 40 cups of solution is used for about 25 pounds
of bones.
The term “cosmetically acceptable adhesive” as used
herein refers to an adhesive capable of binding to
human fingernail surfaces, which is water-insoluble, not
unacceptably toxic, and which preferably exhibits no
more than a minimal level of adverse effects (e.g., caus-
ing yellowing, curling, softness or brittleness of the
underlying natural fingernail). A presently preferred
class of adhesive is cyanoacrylate B, which are com-
mercially available. Presently preferred cyanoacrylate
B glues are Solar Seal TM (available from Creative Nail
Design Inc., Oceanside, CA), and Finishing glue (avail-
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able from Never Lift Nail Tips, West Covina, CA).
Other possible adhesives for use herein include urethane
adhesives, empty rim adhesives, acrylic adhesives and
other low temperature cure adhesives. Conventional
nail enamels and lacquers are also bonded to the nail and
provide a continuous phase for the matrix. However,
these latter materials are less durable and generally not
preferred.
These materials are all well known and commercially
available. They are further described in the literature
such as in the section “Adhesive” appearing at page
122-123 of Volume 1 of McGraw-Hill Encyclopedia of
Science and Technology.
These adhesives in some cases can be applied as a
single component (this works with the cyanoacrylates,
for example) or in some cases (epoxy monomer and
peroxide catalyst, for example) are mixed just prior to
use.
B. General Method
The matrix composition of the invention is prepared
generally as follows:
Bones pieces, preferably beef shanks, are first
chopped into rough pieces approximately 3 inches
across. (The joints are preferably avoided.) These
pieces are then heated in an alkaline solution at elevated
temperature, preferably 10% aqueous lye at about 100°
C., for about 1 to 5 hours, preferably about 2 hours.
Preferably, the alkaline solution is then drained and
replaced, and the bone pieces boiled for an additional
1-2 hours. About 40 cups of solution (X2) is sufficient to
treat about 25 pounds of bone pieces.
The alkaline-treated bone pieces are then rinsed with
water, preferably after first boiling the alkaline-treated
pieces in neutral water for about 1 to 2 hours.
The rinsed bone pieces are then dried at temperatures
not exceeding about 125° C. It is preferred to dry the
bone pieces slowly, at about 40-90“ C., in order to pre-
vent yellowing. The bone may be dried under vacuum
or reduced pressure, if desired.
The dried bone pieces are then reduced to a fine
powder, for example by grinding or jaw crushing fol-
lowed by ball-milling. The resulting powder is then
sized, for example by screening, to remove particles that
are excessively large or small. The preferred particle
size distribution passes through a 230 mesh screen, but
not a 325 mesh screen. I have found that bone particles
larger than 230 mesh, or smaller than 325 mesh, do not
form a suitable, durable artificial fingernail. If the parti-
cle size exceeds about 230 mesh, the fingernail formed
tends to be crumbly, and lacks sufficient strength to
survive the vicissitudes of normal use. If the particle
size is smaller than about 325 mesh, the resulting pow-
der does not provide enough bulk to form an effective
matrix. With the preferred particle sizes a natural ap-
pearing nail is achieved, while with larger particles a
granular appearance obtains, and with all smaller parti-
cles a chalky appearance results. Thus, the preferred
particle size ranges from about 0.0017 inches to about
0.0025 inches.
The matrix may be used in the following method:
a cosmetically acceptable adhesive, preferably a fast-
setting cyanoacrylate B, is applied to the upper surface
of the natural fingernail 2, preferably over the entire
surface to the cuticle 4. (Caution should be exercised to
avoid applying glue to the cuticle itself.) This applica-
tion can be over the fingernail tip or it can be over the
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entire nail surface (i.e., tip and area over the nail head).
The adhesive is typically applied with a supplied appli-
cator, but may be sprayed on if a mask is used to shield
the finger and cuticle. The finger 1 is then immediately
immersed in the powdered bone matrix of the invention,
removed, and excess powder tapped off. Then, a second
layer of cyanoacrylate adhesive is applied. The finger is
again immersed in the powdered bone matrix, removed,
and the excess tapped off. This step is repeated at least
one more time, and the nail sealed with an additional
application of cyanoacrylate. This sealant adhesive is
preferably a thin, low-viscosity cyanoacrylate B. The
resulting nail is then filed and shaped to the desired
form, buffed to smoothness, an additional sealant layer
applied, buffed, and polished and/or painted. This re-
sults in a final product as shown in FIG. 4 wherein
finger 1 with nail 5 is equipped with artificial nail 9. This
nail is tapered toward its cuticle 4 as shown by region
10. With repeated applications and renewals the con-
tour is maintained throughout the wearing period.
The matrix may also be used to fill in breaks, or to fill
in gaps, e.g., between a preformed nail tip or wrap and
the natural nail. In general practice, the gaps appearing
at the cuticle edge of the nail are filled in after 3-7
weeks, typically 4-6 weeks (in contrast to the 1-2 weeks
necessitated by prior art matrix compositions). The
matrix may additionally be applied to the underside of
the nail, if desired.
C. Examples
C.l Preparation of Powdered Bone Matrix
Twenty-Five pounds of beef shank bones were bro-
ken into approximately 3" pieces, and placed in a large
pot. The bone pieces were covered with about 40 cups
of water and 4 cups of dry lye. The mixture was heated
to a boil, and was boiled for about two hours. Then, the
liquid was drained and another 40 cups of water and 4
cups of lye added, and the fresh mixture boiled for an
additional two hours.
The lye solution was again discarded, and replaced
with 40 cups of fresh water. The bone pieces were
boiled for about two hours, then rinsed in cool water.
The rinsed bone pieces were then dried in air in a
drying oven at about 80° C. until the pieces were white
and chalky. The dried bone pieces were then ball-milled
to a powder, and screened to provide a fraction sized
between 230 and 325 mesh.
C.2 Application of Matrix
A sub_ject’s fingernails were trimmed and lightly
buffed to remove natural oils, to prepare the nails for
application. Then, proceeding one fingernail at a time, a
coat of Solar Seal TM cyanoacrylate B adhesive was
applied over the entire upper surface of the nail, taking
care to avoid the cuticle 10. The finger was then imme-
diately plunged into a container of bone matrix powder
as prepared above, removed, and the finger tapped on
the table to shake off excess powder. A second coat of
adhesive was then applied, the finger inserted in the
powder, and an additional coat of adhesive and powder
applied in like fashion. A final, fourth coat of Finishing
glue (Never Lift Nail Tips, West Covina, CA) adhesive
was applied to seal the nail.
The artificial nail was then shaped and smoothed by
filing, buffed, a second layer of sealant applied, buffed,
and polished with conventional fingernail polish. The
above procedure was applied to each of the fingers. One
may optionally treat the cuticles with a suitable oil
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and/ or cream without damaging the matrix nails. One
may also advantageously apply a penetrating nail
strengthener (prior to polishing), for example Living
Nail (available from Arizona Natural Resources Inc.,
Phoenix, AZ) without damage to the matrix nails.
An additional “touch up” coat of top coat and clear
nail enamel (e.g., Develop 10, from Vital Nail, New
York) was applied every 48 hours to maintain the nail.
The artificial fingernails thus prepared demonstrated
superior longevity and more aesthetic appearance than
conventional artificial fingernails. Further, it was ob-
served that the matrix nails of the invention could be
worn for at least four weeks without requiring “touch-
ing up.”
C.3 Comparative Test
A fingernail of the invention is prepared on the index
fingers of a subject, as in Example C.2 above. On the
middle finger of one hand, a conventional matrix-type
fingernail 7 is applied, and a pre-formed nail 6 applied to
the ring finger. On the other hand, a matrix is prepared
as in Example C.l above on the middle finger, but sub-
stituting a powdered bone fraction larger than 230 mesh
for the preferred powder fraction. On the ring finger,
another matrix is prepared as in Example CI, but sub-
stituting a powdered bone fraction smaller than 325
mesh for the preferred powder fraction. All fingernails
are polished, and otherwise treated normally. The little
fingers on each hand serve as controls: the left little
finger serves as a painted control, while the right little
finger is used as the unpainted (untreated) control.
The fingernails are observed daily for two weeks for
natural appearance, presence of chips or cracks, flexibil-
ity, lifting, and perceptible discontinuities from the nat-
ural nail. The results indicate that the matrix fingernails
of the invention exhibit superior natural appearance
when polished, are more durable, do not cause the un-
derlying natural nail to yellow, and (when polished)
generally appear to be natural nails in all aspects. After
two weeks, the conventional matrix nail 7 exhibits a
marked depression 8 between the nail edge and the
cuticle 4, whereas the nails of the invention exhibit little
or no depression.
The procedure above is repeated, using a variety of
different nail polishes, and varying the particular fingers
used.
I claim:
1. A dry powder product suitable for application to a
layer of cosmetically acceptable adhesive for strength-
ening or extending fingernails, which powder product
comprises:
base-treated, dried, powdered bone, having a particle
size between about 230 mesh and about 325 mesh.
2. An artificial fingernail matrix composition, which
composition comprises:
particles of base-treated, dried, powdered bone, hav-
ing a particle size between about 230 mesh and
about 325 mesh dispersed throughout, irnbedded in
a layer of
a cosmetically acceptable adhesive.
3. The composition of claim 2 wherein said adhesive
is a cyanoacrylate B adhesive.
4. A process for preparing a bone matrix composition
for use in artificial fingernails, which process comprises:
heating bones in an alkaline aqueous solution;
rinsing said alkaline—treated bones;
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drying said rinsed bones at a temperature not exceed-
ing 125° C.;
reducing said dried bones to a fine powder; and
removing bone particles larger than about 230 mesh
and particles smaller than about 325 mesh.
5. The process of claim 4 wherein said alkaline aque-
ous solution comprises 10% aqueous lye, NaOH or
KOH.
6. The process of claim 5 wherein said bones are
heated in said alkaline aqueous solution at about 100° C.
for about 1 to 5 hours.
7. The process of claim 6 wherein the alkaline treat-
ment step is repeated at least once.
8. The process of claim 5 wherein said alkaline-
treated bones are heated in water at about 100° C. for
about 1 to 5 hours, prior to rinsing with water.
9. A method for preparing an artificial fingernail on a
subject’s natural fingemail, which method comprises
the sequential steps of:
applying a first layer of cosmetically acceptable adhe-
sive to the upper surface of a subject’s natural fin-
gernail;
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applying base-treated, dried, powdered bone, having
a particle size between about 230 mesh and about
325 mesh to the first layer of adhesive so as to form
a layer of powdered bone particles adhered to the
first layer of adhesive; and
applying a second layer of cosmetically acceptable
adhesive over the layer of powdered bone parti-
cles.
10. The method of claim 9 which further comprises:
applying a second layer of the base-treated, dried,
powdered bone particles having a particulate size
between about 230 mesh and about 325 mesh; and
applying a third layer of cosmetically acceptable
adhesive over the second layer of powdered bone
particles.
11. The method of claim 10 which further comprises:
applying a third layer of the base-treated, dried, pow-
dered bone particles having a particulate size be-
tween about 230 mesh and about 325 mesh; and
applying a fourth layer of cosmetically acceptable
adhesive over the third layer of powdered bone
particles.
* X 1! * It
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